Rear Disc Brake conversion on the honda

Puttin on new rotors, calipers and rear disc break conversion in the honda. got the fronts done and started puttin the rear conversion on... i got everything off, except for the ermergency break cable, and i could not get that thing off!! I reemed and screwed the screws in as much as i can and after an hour of thinkin of suicide i was like OOHH. lol i had the break on.... But other than that its going well. Thanks to Ben for the conversion that he threw in with the car.. Think im on top of everything, Just one thing,.. when i blead the fronts brakes, i had her pump them a couple times then hold the brake in while i tightened up the bleed valve, then i went to fill up my brake fluid canister and it was almost empty.. idk, gonna be interesting on the first cruise.. You guys think its fine?

Thanks all gonna try to get some pics up tommorrow after work, n see yas at the meet, yall be new faces cept for Mike.

Gavin

When you're bleeding the brakes make sure the reservoir is full, have someone push down on the brake pedal and hold. Crack the bleeder until no more fluid comes out, close it, THEN have her let go of the brake pedal. If she's pumping them while the bleeder is open there will be air in the lines guaranteed (NOT SAFE).

Also always start bleeding the brakes at the farthest location from the master cylinder - ie, the pass rear corner, then work your way to the closest (ds rear, pass front, then ds front). Hope this helps!

I just put my rear disk conversion on my car a couple of weeks ago! Haven't had a chance to drive it yet, but figured it'd be a good upgrade.

Are you upgrading the master cylinder and proportioning valve too? Some say its necessary, some say it isn't. I think I am going to go with a 15/16ths master cylinder and a 4040 prop valve in the near future (before she hits the road), just to have it out of the way.

ok cool, yeah ill prolly just redo them all tonight when there all done. Im not sure, i dont really think it is necessary, the calipers and breaks are the same size as stock. I wouldnt think i would need to upgrade, But this is my first time messing with this stuff so not %100 sure. Let me know how your first drive goes I should be ready to take it for a test run tomorrow after work.

ProOnThaSnow wrote:

Are you upgrading the master cylinder and proportioning valve too? Some say its necessary, some say it isn't. I think I am going to go with a 15/16ths master cylinder and a 4040 prop valve in the near future (before she hits the road), just to have it out of the way.

iI'm one of the guys that says it's not neccessary. But I look at things a little different than some folks. If you plan on using stock brake pads all the way around you might need to do that.

I have found that if you leave the rear pads stock and step up to a more agressive pad in the front it pretty much takes care of bias. If you are ok with playing around with different brake compounds you can get it taken care of without switching masters and all.

a good setup I used was stock Honda OE pads in rear with carbotech panthers in the front.

Dr.Auto wrote:

ProOnThaSnow wrote:

Are you upgrading the master cylinder and proportioning valve too? Some say its necessary, some say it isn't. I think I am going to go with a 15/16ths master cylinder and a 4040 prop valve in the near future (before she hits the road), just to have it out of the way.

iI'm one of the guys that says it's not neccessary. But I look at things a little different than some folks. If you plan on using stock brake pads all the way around you might need to do that.

I have found that if you leave the rear pads stock and step up to a more agressive pad in the front it pretty much takes care of bias. If you are ok with playing around with different brake compounds you can get it taken care of without switching masters and all.

a good setup I used was stock Honda OE pads in rear with carbotech panthers in the front.

But really what do u know Matt u work at a break shop hahah

I did a disc rear conversion and did what matt said and have no issues with the breaks but i dont have enough rice to make my ar move very fast. My ls is tired and weak and smokes so i dunno..

[quote="92civic] But really what do u know Matt u work at a break shop hahah [/quote]

No kidding... this morning was nothing but a BREAK shop. lol

And Jesse.... ur whole car is weak. I have yet to see you run 6.28 second 1/4 mile.

From all the research I've done some say it is only necessary if you're going to be road coursing your car, because the rear brakes will lockup slightly before the fronts hard braking into corners. Is it necesary? Probably not for my application, but its one of those small price to pay in the event I actually use it for that application.

ProOnThaSnow wrote:

From all the research I've done some say it is only necessary if you're going to be road coursing your car, because the rear brakes will lockup slightly before the fronts hard braking into corners. Is it necesary? Probably not for my application, but its one of those small price to pay in the event I actually use it for that application.

Exactly..... which is why I'm saying you can also get around it by putting a more aggresive pad in the front too to get the bias more close to what it should be so rears don't lok up first. With Honda OE pads in rear and Carbotech panther pads in front its Dang close. Even for "road racing" or auto-x.

UPDATE!! ok so tonight i just had time to get the back left one done... kinda is alotta work. but anyways got done about an hour ago, took her for a rip. and tested the breaks and they were kinda squishy. So i got back home and checked out the breaks to see why they were squishy and the back left one (one i just put on) was dripping, and ithought i got it pretty tight, but i tightened it about a half turn then it broke lol... so got that all drilled out and got a backup one in. Seemed like it tightened up good, gonna re bleed and try again tomorrow,.. N i also got a giant ass tach in there today, since mine didnt come with a tach stock., and have a spoon style carbon fiber wing with the light init on its way..

Gotta love a duckbill on an EG!

If you need a hand dont be afraid to ask. Many of us on here are willing to help if we can.

I have a brand new 15/16 master cyl. I just bought and now dont need.. If any of you are looking to take that extra step in your brake set ups!

I am looking forward to seeing this hatch soon, sounds like you are taking it in right direction..

Shes comin together nicely, next thing, gonna try to get rid of that cracked hood, n dress up the interior, i was thinking Type R red with some ferrarii style red and black seats. those would look tight. but gonna be about 600 bucks to do all that.., and maybe buy the 5 ways from you.. But it might we another month or so, im just gonna keep that pickup, and gonna have to put some money down on it.. The car is gonna be put to a hault until at least the middle of june.

need to lower that monster truck before doing anything else!! haha

lol yeah, it sits way too high, but i just want to keep it about stock height, i hate bottoming out, and it makes me feel retarted when i do lol

thats why you buy a good suspension! not coilovers on stock struts lol haha

yeah fo sho! ill let you know if i have the extra cash.. and im gonna drive it to work tomorrow. im really nervous to drive it across town..haha. i took it for a test drive just around the block and i was really neverous that something was gonna fall off and completely destroy the car. I would feel alot better if i could take a air wrench to everything, but i put medium lock tight on everything and tightened it as much as i could. n i need to tighten up my tie rod a bit. wheel is at an angle a bit, but i couldnt get it to budge.