My parts list for my 4G63 Head rebuild and prices

Forced Performance Cams FP DSM 4R cams intake and exhaust $501....increased midrange and top end power
here's the spec sheet on them) http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/00000001/data/101FP4R%20Spec%20Rev%20A.pdf

FP Beehive upgraded Spring and retainer set $284

Supertech Valve guides $84 for the set of intake and exhaust together

Supertech Valve Stem Seals $37 for the set

Topline revised lifters $150 for the set of 16

AEM Black Adjustable Cam Gears $255 for the pair

Clear Zaklee cam gear cover $79....so I can show off my sweet looking gears and still cheaper than OEM lol

Gates timing belt(for both head and block but listing anyways($140) 3X stronger and more heat resistant that OEM

Fuel Injector seal kit $25

OEM Fuel rail spacers $4/ea

JMF Metal Spark Plug Cover $94

ARP Head Stud Set $105

SuperTech Vlavles $270

Stainless Steel Valve cover bolt kit (Allen Wrench Style) $18

so as you can see even for my head rebuild I have my work cut out for me not to mention the complete cleaning smoothing defects and repainting the damn thing all these pieces I've looked around for and so far this is what I've found so I have a long lst of parts just to get the head done

What turbo will you be running? The reason I ask is if you are sticking with the stock turbo you would probably be better sticking with something like a HKS 256 cam, 264's max. Going any higher than that you are going to shift your power curve so far right that you will probably max out the turbine housing before really getting to the area your engine will be meant to flow the best air. Too many people go too big, not to mention this also kills fuel mileage, and idle quality. When I ran 264 degree cams with similar lift to the cams you are looking at my car ran like it was all stock and made the same power it does with the 270's. The only reason I am running the 270's is because i can rev much higher than stock and wanted Tq to hold out a little longer, and that is taking a lot of toying with the cam timing. If I still had the 264's I'd probably go back. I can share a lot about the changes if you care.

The supertech stuff is awesome, by far some of the best valvetrain you can buy. I helped do some testing on the spring rates on a lot of aftermarket SR valve springs and a lot like Greddy ended up being weaker than stock. Just don't get the 116 ft/lbs springs unless your building a high reving drag engine that will get frequent rebuilds.

I'm going for and Evo3 turbo and the springs I'm looking at are 75Ft/lbs

here are the pages for the cams I'm looking at the HKS are $655 shipped and the FP ones are just around $440 shipped both are good brands with one of Forced Performances own cams being inside the Gastroker that does 1024AWHP

Street Tuned Motorsports

Forced Performance

and of course feel free to leave more feedback on possible considerations remember I just stripped the block today and haven't even begun to have it bored so by all means help me make the correct decisions for a fun DD that still has somewhere in the ballpark of the 400's in HP

If you want a fun DD stick with 264's or less, the HKS cams would be my pick because i have seen them out perform almost every cam out there for almost every engine I have seen that HKS makes cams for. With 264's you will get great performance while still being DD friendly. You can get 270's to drive good but it takes a lot more tuning and have lower vacuum to assist the brakes.

264's will make good midrange power and still hold Tq pretty well too. You should be able to find a lot of dyno charts of all the cams you mention to see what the power curve looks like. Good mid range power makes for a lot more fun DD than lots of peak power.

cool will look soon and I'll go for the HKS even though they are more expensive they were my first pick cuz they are not reground stock shafts and I'd rather have new shafts than regrounds. and now that I think of it I'll look at the supertech springs and retainers if I can find them

BTW one set of parts that I'm having trouble locating on the internet are the valve seals that directly contact the actual Valve head the metal ones maybe I already listed them and didn't know but I couldn't find them for the life of me or maybe I'm looking for them with the wrong description

and thank you nate your helping me a lot with helping reinforce my good plans and helping correct my badly made plans thnx
what brand pistons should I get however I'm gonna be going for 1g pistons and will be going at least .020 over but don't know which brand I should go for Wiseco(which my brother runs in his Harley and loves them), Ross (which I've heard of but haven't heard about them), or JE(they say they are the best), all come with the wrist pins and piston rings and all come in 8.3:1 and 9:1 flavors(which I'm don't know which compression ratio is better)

See if CP makes a piston for your application, I've run ross and JE, both were loud and required larger clearances. I love my CP's and know a lot of guys that run them to 1000 to 1200hp range.

I'd just use OEM valve seals.

checked them out but hey if they're worth having in a "Pride-&-Joy" Hand built Power DD Engine then I'll go for them