My 240 hatch

I'll just get to the pics since thats what we all like to see
the hog



the hogs heart


the new strut bar, quite a bit beefier


got this hatch spoiler



but didnt really like the wedge shape, so a littl amatuer fiberglassing and
body filler and shazaam



battery to the trunk to make room for the turbo goodies


Uprade the fuel system for an eventual top feed setup. Aeromotive off
the rail fpr and marshall liquid filled gauge to make tuning a bit easier
and a handful of AN fittings that cost alot more than I thought




the power fc and greddy turbo timer and boost controller to manage the
setup and whatnot

twin turbo maf (z32) to open up its lungs

She still has the notorious loppy idle which I'm currently hunting down, but
when i move back up to billings and you guys pull along side, if shes
revving like an asshole, take it easy. i'm not trying to tease you into a race
especially you hot rod muscle car fellas. Im pretty approacable andlike to
talk to other car nuts so by all means wave me down and Ill pull over and
bullshit with ya if im not busy. Im still finishing up my endentured servitude
in the Marines out here on Camp Pendleton, but I should be moving back to
billings by the end of the summer of 2013. See ya around
My boys and i on our last deployment to Afghanstan. Im bottom row far right

Corey!

lookin good, always love to see another well put together 240 in MT

Corey don't post stuff like this or I'll end up with a 240 again! Move back here so we can go for a ride, and have Perm bring his down.

What up guys? Thats the whole idea is to get you to buy another one or something so we can go destroy our diving records Jason. Jake, you fiddlin around with anything these days. I saw Nels' ride on his facebook, his is lookin good or did he ditch it? I'll be back up there friday night so hopefully I'll see guys while I'm there. Unfortunately we're bringing the wifeys slow moblie

Very nice s13.5 bro.

ts4l wrote:

Corey don't post stuff like this or I'll end up with a 240 again! Move back here so we can go for a ride, and have Perm bring his down.

Would be a pleasure to see you pick up another S chassis Being you sold yours some time ago now do you have another automotive related project these days?

PS this is Eric, talked to you a few times while i was with Full Race, although the majority of your work with them was before i worked there. haha Geoff i recall when Geoff told me about you figuring we pry knew one another already.

NICE 240!

Love the Zs.

Nope no projects right now, just been trying to travel the world and surf some fun spots. Had a 350z for a brief time but missed the s-chassis. The last few weeks I have looked a little. I'd love to build another one someday. How long will you be oversea's?

Im back in cali, done deploying bro. That last deployment took alot from me and Im done risking my life for the ass clown leadership in the Marine Corps. Not to metion the pay sucks. My contract is up in october of 2013 and then Im out and back to montana. So i might need to pay brewed performance a visit for a montana tune. Are they legit, they seem to know their stuff. I'm still runnin the power fc. If you need a new project jason, get a sentra and use my gtir motor, I think I still ahve just about everything except the turbo to get it in and running. hahaha it probably not ur style tho. Im still trying to sell it so if anyone out there is interested hit me up. We should get into billings late friday night and saty for the whole week so we'll have to get together for a bbq or something guys. Wish I could bring the 240 up. See ya soon fellas. By the way that blue 240 is impressive, 389 on KA-T, wow! I'll have to get on their website and check everything out.

Yep Eric (TunerMT) who is posting in here is Brewed and would be a good guy to tune for you. Been around 240's for a long time. Way better than trusting Steve Shadows ha ha!

The GTiR would be sweet by far my favorite motor except that its FWD but still sweet. Would be a fun project to build a drag sentra with.

Nate's car is sweet looking and done right. You may know him we all used to skate together back in the day.

I will be gone till Sunday in SLC for my sister's wedding but I fly back Sunday so I'll call you, be nice to BBQ Monday or something.

Love the conversion man

That first pic kind of reminds me of a pic of mine! Ha ha

thanks for the compliments guys. And yeah steve shadows is my last resort. Im going to try and find somebody else out here, but suprisingly there are not as many knowledgable tuners out here in socal as you think but whatever. And if someone doesnt buy the gtir i say we find the lightest chssis we can and build the crap out of it.
I like this bumper on ur car Jason, clean and simple. I want something along those lines but different ya know, dont want to build a complete replica of your car, hahaha. My fiber glas bumper and side skirts are takin a beating out here. But that is a ways away, I need to beef up the suspension first and get it tuned properly. I'm looking at spl arms and such, nice but spendy. Evereyone seems to like the isis stuff as Ken at enjuku replaces defective products and backs his customers so not sure yet.

If you're looking for a tuner Eric (tunermt) does great work.

Maybe some of these to keep the tires planted.


and some of these to keep the cops on their feet

Freakin missile balloons. Should get a good laugh.

The power FC is a great ECU and tuning that is no problem, i have a datalogit state side I tune power fc's with (doing a full tune on the power commander is CRAZY time consuming!)

Quote :

Nope no projects right now, just been trying to travel the world and surf some fun spots. Had a 350z for a brief time but missed the s-chassis. The last few weeks I have looked a little. I'd love to build another one someday. How long will you be oversea's?

If you ever make it out towards SE asia be sure to hit me up would be more than happy to meet up or provide a place to crash.
Not 100% sure how much longer i'll be over here but i do know i'll be headed states side again in the near future to tune a few cars and enjoy some mountains and snow!!!

Quote :

thanks for the compliments guys. And yeah steve shadows is my last resort. Im going to try and find somebody else out here, but suprisingly there are not as many knowledgable tuners out here in socal as you think but whatever. And if someone doesnt buy the gtir i say we find the lightest chssis we can and build the crap out of it.

Is the car out in cali with you now or in MT? Either location let me know your time frame and what your after. We can figure out a time and place to make a tune happen if you like.

As for suspension your spot on SPL is HIGH quality while ISIS is decent and low cost. We regularly sell both and ISIS does offer good customer support if you ever have problems.

Always feel free to contact Brewed or me directly any time, happy to help out with info, parts, tuning whatever

PS pulsar gti-r motor... never a bad thing to have floating around! B13 sentra + gti-r engine = dirt cheap FAST fwd that's for damn sure. I believe i may even have some stuff left over to chip and tune that factory ecu if you guys ever find something to put it in i'd be happy to play around with it together.

tunermt
This 240 is out in cali right now with me. I just rebuilt it with new oem pistons but reused the rods, new all arp fasteners, race bearings, new acl valve seals apex 1.1 mm hg. Im unsure of the injector size that came with this motor when I got it. They are the 'msd style' side feeds but they're red so for sure after market. This steve Shadows kid couldn't figure out what size they were when we had it on the dyno which I figured a good tuner with a power fc and datalogit, which we had, would have been able to figure out their sizes or come close, by playing with the latency settings and looking at each dyno run data. Im running the z32 maf, turbonetics t3-t4 60 trim, full 3 inch exhaust straight piped, no cat, fuel pressure right at 40 lbs.,the fmic, warlbro 255, on 16 lbs of boost that comes on full at 4000 rpms when thewastegate opens and continues to creep up to 19 lbs until redline. And with all that he only got 200 whp. I know I wanted a conservative tune, and I'm definitely not that knowledgable about all that goes into calibrating a motor but reading more and more on the topic since my tuning session helped me realize that Steve shadows isnt all that knowledgabl either. he seemd to kinda struggle to reach the low numbers that he did. And with everything I have done it seems like I should be more around 300-350 whp. I would definitelt rather have you guys take a crack at it. Rather some montana local boys get paid rather than this kid out here. I think the motor is broken in fully and ready to see what she can do. And if we can do it out here thatd be great. Here in a month or 2 I should have the new injectors and the last few bits I need for a good dyno session. Let me know what works for you and we can work out a date and time.

Dang you Corey ha ha! I keep kicking myself for not enjoying all that nice spl stuff I added right before I sold it! Deffonately be fun to get all the bugs worked out so you can finally enjoy it!

Eric you talk to Geoff much anymore? Last I talked to him he was trying to sell me his car out in New Jersey! There are some cheap sentras around town and a nice g20! Maybe when ya get back Corey we'll have to build a TS drag car ha ha!

Im down. TS drag car sounds great.
Some new parts just showed up, well new to me.
valve cover with the fittings and ss hoses

isis intake mani with tps, iacv, and throttle body. Just wanna see how the power changes with this style before I drop big bucks on the real deal.

greddy catch can, because I can.

oh and this little guy, this little guy is the key to getting my pieced together power steering system installed. I feel stupid for being excited about power steering. I wanna know what she handles like with it installed seeing how the previous owner neede the 5 extra hp that ditching it netted him

All this for 400 bucks shipped. With the extra tps, throttle bofy, iacv and earls fittings and ss lines, I think I got a deal.
Now for some topfeed injectors and fuel rail. This will all probably get bolted up when I get back from Montana. I'd like to use my current valve cover and source out the s14 or s15, I forget which one fits or has the better baffles, and have the frankenstein valve cover welded up for my SR. But thats another down the road project. I wish I had a legit tune on her right now so my next tune would tell the difference between the stock intake mani and this 'freddy' piece. I'm not going to pony up the dough just to find out tho. I'll get all this and the fuel system sorted out before the next tune. Jason- you probably could chime in on this, but from my reading, the greddy style intake loses some power on the bottom end, but gives it rigt back up top, if I'm reading right.

Regarding the fuel system did you already order something? (i suggest going big enough to give you some head room for E85 in the future as tuning big injectors with the FC is easy enough.)
There are a few good top feed conversion kits we regularly sell as well if your still in the market. (injector dynamics ftw, haha i see the sticker on the intake manifold!)

Another big thing for your set up will be to boost leak test it. A small leak after the MAF sensor can cause big issues for driving/tuning etc.
here is a good link for diy boost leak tester (also have on in missoula you are welcome to use when your back)
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/119676-diy-another-boost-leak-tester.html

With your build on pump gas i would expect ~280-320 to the wheels as long as everything is healthy. (i believe your on stock cams and log style exhaust manifold yes?

Do you have external or internal waste gate set up? I can't tell from the pics but am guessing external 35 or 38mm?

I'll be headed state side sooner than later at this point for some tuning, will you be driving or shipping the car back to MT anytime soon? Where exactly in CA are you located?

PS can you please start to email me, it is hard for me to keep track of everything in all the different forums. (you'll get your own special folder in my email to make things super easy for me to look back on regarding your build!)

tuning@brewedmotorsports.com

Quote :

Eric you talk to Geoff much anymore? Last I talked to him he was trying to sell me his car out in New Jersey! There are some cheap sentras around town and a nice g20! Maybe when ya get back Corey we'll have to build a TS drag car ha ha!

ya i keep in touch with Geoff fairly often (usually just the current sales guys when we order stuff) i am not to familiar with his 240 on the east coast as i never made it out that way and the 240 never made it to AZ. I seem to recall it sure doesn't get used much though besides possibly his pops driving it from time to time? Other than that know i know very little about it haha. The pictures i've seen looked nice enough but we all know how pictures can be

OH and on the intake manifold, i'd be interested in helping you do some testing on that vs stock. May even have a 3rd high end option available by then as well if interested. (i'll be testing the s14 version on my E30 in the some what near future so long as USPS finds my F***in package they shipped to brazil instead of thialand!

Thailand!? Been to phuket with jake, and also spent some time in singapore and other places around that area while on a few deployments. Went snowboarding in Dubai in their ginormous mall, pretty sweet. And concerning the car I will email you from here on out as well as keep this updated too. Just in case others are interested and mostly so jason can tell me "been there done that, good idea, bad idea" hehehe
As of right now head work is all stock, cams, springs retainers valves etc. Just new valve seals when I rebuilt it.
Jason can attest to the car having a less than dsired tune on the power fc wich led to the detonation all the way down to the ring lands and rings on cylinder #4. I rebuilt it myself in my garage armed with an FSM and a few phone calls to jason and some others as well. Got the rebuild kit from FRSport because I heard their customer service was exceptional and it is. But if Brewed can match that the I'm all for some local guys getting my business. About the only upgrade on the rebuild was the race bearings, 1.1 Apex hg, and ARP hardware. Aside from the the idle issue all 'appears' to be holding up. Although from reading on the forums a re-torque on the head studs needs to be addressed. They are ARP head studs, not bolts. So there is some debate wether studs need to be retorqued where as the general consensus on bolts is that they 'do' need to be retorqued after 300-500 miles or so. None of this was mentioned in the directions from arp or the FSM I have downloaded so it only came to my attention as of lately reading on zilvia and what not, but forums are what they are and I dont take anything on there as statements of fact just ideas.
It is a log style manifold and the turbo is externally wastegated, 38 mm to an open dump pipe or screamer pipe or whatever the kids are callin em these days. Ive reached my fund limit at the moment so heavy expenditure will have to wait and I'll be focusing on installing what I have or prepping it for install. I'm not a fan of shiny things so the intake manifold is going to get a wrinkle black paint job. I hope I can pull it off to look as classy as some of the others Ive seen. I'll try to post pics of the before during and after from here on out.
Here is some of the rebuild process, actually mostly tear down because I couldnt find the camera on the rebuild.
Here was a clue to something bad

this probably isnt good either

this is my reward for frequent oil changes when I removed the valve cover


this came free of charge

and if anybody has a better idea than all this leaky crap Im all ears, while retaining my heater and whatnot.

And as this doesnt seem like a big deal, it took 3 pry bars and alot of cursing to seperate these two, like they were jb welded together or something. Never had as tough a time getting a tranny off as this one.

and finally the problem

and what lay beneath


wish I had taken more pictures of the whole process. I'm pretty proud that its still running for my first build on my own. Actually had my neighbor over to teach him how to do it. Blind leading the blind was more like it tho.
and then got hungryfor spaghetti while I waited for my parts, mmmmm soldering


This was miracle #2 after getting the motor together, stripping the harness of the extras not needed, re-soldering the crappy joints, depinning, repinning. And after everything, the car fired up first try, no joke. I know, I was surprised too. My wife got nervous when I had the ignitor unplugged and was just turning it over for a minute to prime it up with oil. She had a look of horror like,"oh my god, you just spent all this time and money and its not working?". Then I plugged the chip in and vrooooommmmm!!!!!! I thought it was funny. Headed to montana tomorrow so updates will come next weekend when I reuturn. Eric I'll email you as well. See ya later guys.

never a bad idea to check/re torque head studs after 300-500 miles, one of those better safe than sorry type of things you might say.

looking forward to talking with you more, great work on your rebuild!

Sorry I fell off the face of the earth but some updates and pics are here. Just been busy with some more marksmenship instructor courses so I been out rat-a-tat-tatin. But wife gave me some nag free weekend time for the beast so here we go. Got around to getting the new valve cover installed and while I was in there I also went ahead and rechecked the torque on the head studs. Set me torque wrench to 80 lbs. and every one of cchecked out A OK, so although it was a pain in the ass just to find out out it was all good, I can stop worrying that my slight idle problems are from head studs backin off. So I got the new valve cover on and the greddy catch can hooked up. As is alot of things on this car right now is kind of just in there to make sure it does its job before I get stuff fabbed up and put that money into it. The plumbing seems to be working out pretty descent. I have had the new VC and catch can on for about 2 weeks and so far there is zero oil in the can. Put the boost to it too since I confirmed the torque on the headstuds and all is well. Pulls strong and hard, right up until the waste gate opens up. Have been selling my old g20 stuff so hopefully a new rail and injectors will be purchased soon. So I'll probably be giving eric at brewed an email to work something out with him in the near future to get it up to full power, ok ok ok pics






also got both my electric fans installed as well







right now they are each wired into their own seperate toggle switches until I can pony up for a descent fan controller and themo switch. It is nice because I can turn em on before the car gets up to temp on the hot days and beat the heat to the punch. I also ordered a used cranck pulley because I want power steering and I chipped the livving hell out of my last one during the tear down because Im an amatuer. So I found one on zilvia and the dude shipped it in a bublle bag and this is what I got.






It is a small chip but a chip none the less. Seriously, a bubble bag? wtf. People boxes are not that expensive, so pony up and ship ur stuff in boxes.
I filed the chip down a bit and smoothed it all out so it wouldnt strip the belt to shreds. I also finally pieced together a power steering system and I'll get pics up soon. Its a custom job with the resevoir relocated and a generic cooler mounted behind the bumber. So I got it all hooked up and clamped up, fluid topped off and air bled out. I pretty much just drove it around without a belt on the pump. I figured driving around and turning and what not would work the air out. So then I put the belt on, getting all excited like a kid in a candy store,.....right up until I fired it up. Apparently I got one of those powwer steering pumps that thinks its a super charger. But even tho the pump whines like a bleeding heart liberal who thinks there is no work in this country, it still works. Works like a red blooded, steak eatin, ditch diggin, pipe welding, ass kicking, cussing american. In fact it works so well I almost drove into a curb turning off my street. Its weird going from manhandling the wheel at every turn to effortlessly using a couple fingers to turn any which way I please. So with the chipped pulley showing up and the confused power steering pump that wishes it was a compressor I think I'm done buying most stuff off the internet for certain items. I'll get pics of the pump and setup posted soon. I'm also working on getting the new intake manifold ready for install, but it wont happen until the fuel system gets upgraded. I'll also take that time to paint the VC and and manifold and a few other odds and ends. I'll try and get a video up as well.

nice little update, sorry to hear about the crank pulley but it sounds like you handled the issue perfect i doubt you'll ever have an issue with it. Annoying situation though!

Looking great brother, keep rat-a-tat-tatin!

Thanks guys. I actually just spent an hour adding more pics and stuff and the page had to reset or something so it all got lost. I'm going to give it another try. Nate your car is clean as I seen em come around these days. Nice job yourself. There is a few 240 meets out here and the last one I went to, some dude running errands rolls up in a california legal R32 GTR. It was one of the last ones motorex or however it's spelled imported before they closed up shop. He shipped a 95 chevy truck to japan and traded a guy over there straight across for it. There are some pretty slick 240's out here but yours still stands above em by far. Can't wait to get back to Montana.

power steering installed, the isis line fit right in with plenty of extra length so I can route it around the dump tube and what not.

mounted my no name cooler, just ziptied for now until I can build a bracket to mount it not so cheesy this weekend. Compared to the hardlines the run along the cross member it may be overkill but I dont care.

Relocated power steering revoir here because the way my turbo is clocked aims the outlet and routes the hot pipes right where this would normally bolt up. I'm sure most you 240 guys already saw that though.

Had to boil the new hose to get it onto the resevoir. I cant wait until I can afford a welder and just go all -AN fittings and SS lines.

And just how it all looks at the steering rack. All in all nothing special but it works, aside from the super charger sound.

I also found my camera card with some of my rebuild pics, nothing crazy, just photo evidence on how much I didnt know I was doing.




even after spending so much time shaving the pan and test fitting this stil happened due to the ARP main studs.


but i found an old hot rod guy who was willing to weld her up for me. ugly but it isn't leaking so its fine by me



I also did my own valve job and replaced the valve seals with new supertech seals. I wouldnt recommend using the spring compressor in these pics. Obviously it'll work because I used it but there is one that actually bolts to the front and back of the head and has a rotating rod and lever assembly thats a lot more slender and easier on the install

before




new seals

Out with the old


All new seals all in


Made sure I lableled it all so as not to have to cuss and kick stuff trying to put it all together


and of course had to get my fingers into the harness

Didn't like the way the boost controller and turbo timer were installed, soooooo I did it a better way. I'm sorry I suck at taking during pictures. Once I get my hands in something, I'm in the zone and am just eager to get the project done.
Before

During


After


I like this alot better. That spot was begging for the controllers. And now I dont have to bang my knee into em any more.

Also I'm selling this set of tools and tool box, 2,200 bucks firm. let me know
Box on the left

drawer pads and handle

tools






Yes these are snap on tools aside from a couple blue poit items like the hammers. But the box and main tools are snap on. I know somebody wants em

clean install my friend

Well I did some welding to get the exhaust away from the left side of the bumper. Its not a huge reposition because all I did was cut the rear hanger and reweld it just slightly lower and to the left. The welds are embarassing but whatever. Camp Pendleton has an automotive hobby shop where you can rent baqsically anything you want. A full bay with a car lift runs 6 bucks an hour and the welder was 12 bucks an hour. The welder they rolled out for me was pretty much an equivelant to a 2 dollar hooker in Thailand, pretty beat with a fluctuating voltage. Some turned out alright others not so muchI also got the dump pipe rewelded as well. I'll get the pics up of my attempt up soon. You all can go ahead and laugh because I did. Looks like the welding yeti sneezed on it..

6 bucks an hour for a space with a lift is pretty tits! sorry to hear the welder sucked though.... it's really to bad it wasn't a $20 hooker in Thailand

Corey already had the $20 hooker last time he was in Thailand ha ha! I think I have pics of that trip somewhere!

Hey hey hey, she was a nice girl who had aspirations of being a stewardess. Besides somebody else on that trip was busy making out with Shakira's twin sister, IIRC. hehehehehe hahahahhaaha.

LIAR!

I know I know, just getting the spot light off my exploits. Besides the elephants at the rsturant and the kid who rode on top of our parachutes when we were para-sailing were way cooler. Oh and the trannies that almost mugged us for taking a picture of em.

More pics of my busy work.
Used the on base automotive hobby shop to take care of some of my buswted ass exhaust problems. In my defense, the welder they had for rent was impossible to get a consistant heat and speed setting dialed in on.
tabs for the hanger

hanger





Initially the heat was decent, then it just started blowing holes in everything so then my welds suffered. I'm not the best welder but I used to work at Roscoe Steel fabbing stuff up so I have a good understanding of what welds should be, but like I said that welder was beat up like a fat chick on a big wheel.
Also got my wiring specialties harness in, and my overall opinion is that its great. All new wires and clips and its rigged for multiple chassis' manual/auto and what not. So I left all the clips I'm not using on the harness so when I want to sell it in the future it'll be usable to more people. I did have to solder on my injector clips so that sucked hacking into the harness for that but a simple procedure so no biggie.

chassis clips for auto/manual

MAF clips for stock or Z32

bulkhead section

Also been hand filing the intake manifold because I'm not a fan of chrome. I thought it was just polished, but it is chromed. These files are all I really have to get thru it and as I'm not in a super hurry to get this mounted, filing it down is my path. Not sure if I want to paint it wrinkle black or try and keep it like this.
chromeo'd

bye bye shiny bling




looking down into the runners there is alot of flashing and casting deposits that i will try and file down somewhat, but I'm not trying to get too crazy in there. I need to find a descent cold pipe for this new intake as well, or a good shop to modify the pipes I already have. I also need to find my lock for my lug nuts. I can't find that bitch anywhere. Next purchase is a new coolant temp sensor, the datalogit for my power fc and an innovative wide band. And i may try my hand at fabbing up a vent for my hood and a lower splitter to help with air flow thru the engine bay. But this is all for now. If any of you guys have any ideas about any of this, I'm open to criticism, critiques and suggestions. Thanks for reading guys.

lookin good, also not a big fan of chrome/polish 90% of the time.

Ya, a little shine here and there is okay, but moderation is the key for me. Big parts like this being shiny will only show my lazyness in keeping things clean.

Well played sir!

Well, with a little prompting from Eric at Brewed performance, I test fitted the fuel rail to the new intake maifold. Looking forward to getting this thing mounted.



This little tab has to come off as well as another on towards the back. Hopefully I can get the new rail and injectors, and shelf this thing or sell it.






Me just pretending its in, this ought to really help clean the bay up alot.

As long as everything goes smoothly, a new fuel rail and ID 1000's will be in the near future here shortly. But the new baby should be here any day now so that will be my focus for a little while. But I'm a gear head at heart, so I'll find ways to get into the garage to fiddle with this bad boy and keep it updated. I can't wait to get back to Montana.

Alright, so I purchased a new cold pipe to get my Freddy intake manifold mounted. Should be here by weeks end. I have a question for those that still look thru my thread, I have done some minor grinding to get some of the casting deposits out of the runners and what not, and there are now shavings inside the plenum. What is the best way to ensure I get all of these out of the manifold. Of course I will use my common sense and flush it as best as possible but if any one has experience I'm all ears. Nate I'm hoping you will chime in here, and Jason you too. I think Eric is on his honeymoon so if he doesn't chime in, I won't cry and eat a gallon of ice cream for ignoring me. Also by weeks end I'll be ordering the FC Datalogit and I think I'm also going with the Innovate
MTX-L wideband O2. I've honestly read the shootout article as well as so many other "bought this one, worked like that" blah blah blah. I just basically made the choice to purchase this one instead of the AEM unit or Zeitronix or the others because I need one and can't waste my time worrying about getting a shitty one. Never heard anything bad about Innovat either so here's hoping I'll be happy with it. I will try my best to take as many pictures as possible when I do the install for all you picture goblins.

Fc datalogit and innovate wideband enroute. Wallet is now empty again.

Wideband showed up. I'll get around to getting it installed this week. I'm not even confident I got the best or right one but from reading everything, it seemed like a decent one so here's hoping.

So I got the wideband installed and took pics. Went rather smoothly since there was already a bung on the exhaust and I already had a spot for the gauge. Overall, I'm happy with it. But I'll just get right inot it.
First things first, find a switched 12v source


Find a headlight power wire, I already have gauges over here so I tied into the wire supplying them.


Once I located the neccesary wires, I disconnected the battery


This is the oil temp gauge I no longer need, so the Innovate gauge will take its place.


MTX-L installed


Red wire on MTX-L goes to switched 12v, which is this green wire supplying 12v for my other 2 gauges


Again, white wire on MTX-L goes to headlight wire, which is this thicker white wire supplying switched power for the other gauges lights. This wire works differently for the MTX-L . It dims the display when lights are turned on so it's not too distracting at night. If you don't want the display on the gauge to dim when it's dark and you turn your lights on, then ground this wire to the chassis.


Black wire on MTX-L is the ground wire. Keep it away from radio grounds or anything similar that has a lot of "electrical noise". As per the instructions, it could interfere with MTX-L unit, similar to the reason MAF wiring is shielded.


The yellow and brown wire are analog outputs for either your ecu or datalogging, I will be using these later but for now not neccesary. So I individually heat shrinked them, then heat shrinked them together.


So here's the wires behind the glove box area. I'm not worried about how the wires look now as I have a few more things to do under here, so it will get cleaned up in later this week.


Before you hook up the actual sensor to the MTX-L, the unit needs to calibrate itself. So now that everything is wired up, hook the battery up and switch the car to accessory or on position. The gauge will cycle on lighting up the entire digital readout and sweep the light bar across the enitre spectrum. The it will show E2, which is error code for no sensor, which is great because the O2 sensor not plugged in yet.


Then the car gets turned to the off postion or just remove the keys, the O2 sensor gets plugged in and is allowed to sit in the open for a "free air" calibration. So I plugged it in and set it on the box to keep it off the ground.


Turn key to the "on" position, no need to start the car. The gauge will show "Htr". This is the sensor heating up so it can get accurate readings. I took these 2 pics because as the method the gauge uses to display the reading, the camera catches it in between it pulsing the readout, weird. It only looks like this in a pic. It shows a constant display to the human eye.



After 30-60 seconds it will display the reading which will be 22.4 because that's the gauges upper reading limit of lean and since the gauge is sitting in open air that's correct.Now power the car off again and it's time to mount the sensor. You can unplug the sensor and you won't have to recalibrate it as long as you do not power the car on while it is unplugged.
Time to make a hole


After about 5 minutes it finally punches through. Here you can see the bung that was already in the exhaust for me as well. Score!


Painted the hole and applied some gasket maker.


Then a rubber gromet and more rtv.


Found this old broken scope cap that I filed a slot in, then used another grommet to help keep the water and debree out.


Slit the small grommet, slipped the wiring into that, generously applied more rtv and placed the whole ensemble in place.


Then sprayed it all black.


Everything went relatively smoothly especially having the bung already in the exhaust. Had an old broken O2 to keep it plugged. Old on the left, New on the right.


If anyone has any questions on it feel free to ask. I'd also like to point out that I got the MTX-L with the 8ft sensor cable option. Needless to say i have about 4 ft coiled up under the dash but when I use it for dyno tuning it will come in handy having the extra cable. They offer it in a 4 ft cable which would be fine, should be able to mount he gauge any where on the dash with the 4 ft option. Thanks for reading.

Finally getting around to getting the new intake manifold mounted up. Still need a iacv hose and also need to modifly the cold side piping, but it should be done by thursday afternoon sometime. Anyway, on with the pics.

Getting the old one unhooked and out



New one prepped and ready to go in



Somewhat settled in


Slight mod to the fuel rail, out with uneccesary hardline and just an extended fuel line


Just had to run out and grab some 3/4" ID hose for the IACV and cut up my new isis cold pipe to get it to match up to my other IC piping. All in all, I'd say this went pretty smoothly. Spent about 4 hours actually working to get it done. Thankfully I'm a hoarder and never throw/give anything away. I hade all the vacuum line fittings to screw into the ports under the throttle body and on the underside of the IM so now everything has its one vacuum/boost source, no tee's. My next purchases are a new topfeed fuel rail and some ID 1000's, so pay no attention to that fuel line running across the top of the manifold. When I purchased this badboy it already had the converted throttle body or maybe the whole thing is an s14 unit, I don't know. Either way all I had to do was flip my throttle cable bracket 180 and it works just fine.
fuel rail and lines fitted

All finished up


Any comments and critiques are welcome. Thanks for looking.

Lot's of progress made. As this is no longer my DD, I kind of went bonkers on it. This is all new territory for me so we will see what happens.
Decided that the placement of the intercooler was horrible, giving it more than its fair share of abuse, so I figured why not put it right where the old AC condensor used to be. While I was removing everything and test fitting the new spot I figured I might as well replace the front core support seeing how the previous owner did a half assed job of measuring and welding it in place for the s15 front end. While I was doing that, I knew I needed to get the wiring out of the way so that while I was welding new stuff, the harness wouldn't get fried. Thee-eeeeennn I figured since I had the front part of the chassis harnes pretty much out of the car already, I might as well do a wire tuck. So now, here I sit, with a plan that resembles a 2 yr olds finger painting, that originally started out with a simple intercooler relocation, that hasn't been done, that mutated into a semi tube front/bash bar fab, that has now transmorphorized into a mess which has led to the removal of the entire interior to get this wire tuck finished. Sometimes I really wish I had a different hobby, but I'm a glutton for punishment I guess. Anyway, here's the progress. Sorry for not taking more pics.

I separated the fuse boxes in half so I could snake them through the original holes w/o cutting new ones.



Couple pics of the interior gutted and the wiring taking control.



So, then I borrowed this welder

And scored this 55 gal drum for free to make the tubs. It used to hold methenol but it's been airing out for a week or so now, but I'll purge it with some of the gas from the welder just so I don't Wyle E. Coyote myself.

And picked a 20' stick of 1.5" .120 tube and 1" .95 tube with some other scrap sheets and misc. square tubing.

I've been googling the shit out of s13 front ends as well as scouring the fabrication thread and members build threads, so I have a few ideas but nothing set in stone. So many high quality projects and ideas. Hopefully my method of attacking things with wreckless abandonment and persistance pays off. hahaha
I forgot that welding is 75% prep work 15% welding and 10% wondering if you should take it apart and start over. So after staring at the front end for a few days, and measuring and staring again I decided to finally just cut into it. Whoever put the s15 front end on should just stop touching cars, no pride or skill was involved in the making of this gobbly-gook. Not exactly sure how much to keep and how much to cut away for the tubs, so I'm still figuring out the best way to go about those.

Here's some of the garbage boogers someone tried to disguise as welds


Lower cross member out. I just hit the spot welds with my angle grinder and a couple hits with a hammer to motivate it out.

Im want to try and reuse this but it definitely is not a flush fit so Im not sure yet.

Got the frame rails cleaned up. Lots of unneccesary holes and tack welds, booooo.



And here's the drum again I plan on using for the tubs. Now this is where you the reader get to chime in because I'm curious if I should incorporate the grooves from the drum into the tub for added strength or if someone tried this and it back fired and looked horrible.

After these next couple days I'll be able go at it again. And like I said, I'm all ears for any advice for any body that actually reads this thread.
The tubs being cut from the drum, which takes a long time with a cutoff wheel.


Trimmed to fit

Drivers side ready to weld, passenger side is just sitting there waiting to be fitted into place.


















I know this was huge update and alot was copy and pasted from zilvia build so if it doesn't make sense it's because i combined several posts from there into this big one on here. My next purchase is a dry erase board to keep a list and keep me organized because I'm dumb sometimes. I hope you enjoyed the update.