First Tuning Video Log (Updated w/ better log)

So after much frustration getting both the serial to usb cables working right, I finally got both my LM1 and 034 controller hooked up to my laptop!
I also downloaded a program called CamStudio that allows me to video record what happens on my computer screen. This way I can run a few logs and have real-time video playback! Went and tested it out a bit today, no tuning yet but I've got an idea of what I need to do now.

This is starting in first gear, then second, and then a final pull in third. The program on the right shows vacuum/boost (horizontal line), fuel (matrix squares), and RPM (vertical line). The program on the right shows my air/fuel ratio.



If anyone has some advice or comments please post, I am here to learn

once you get the hang it's addictive

looks like up top you are getting a tad fat. you might bring the afr up to about 10.8-11. youll prolly feel it pull just a tad harder.

I played with it a little bit today, not much though. Changed a few parameters cause if I'm not mistaken I'm running a little rich. I tuned in a slightly leaner map before I got home but havn't gotten to test it out mch.

I lowered the "Fuel Cut Below" and the stumbling that happens at onset seems to have been decreased a little. Also changed just about every box in the matrix to a little bit less than what they were before. I'll post an update later but here's a pic of my new map:

Still learning more and more about this thing now as I have started trying to tune with it. I'm really hoping I can get it figured out with this guys help off the Avenger forum that has been running the same programmer for a few years now. Here was his post on my first video log:

420aVenger wrote:

Please make your pulls past 5000 RPM so we can see what's going on. You are only logging about half of the usable revs in boost. I'm willing to bet that after 5000 RPM your AFR goes to 10 flat or worse. You don't need to add fuel (pulse width) with RPM. You need the greatest injector pulse width at max torque and less before and after. Your car is going to use more fuel overall when you are making more power but that is because you have more combustion cycles. However, during each individual cycle the cylinder is actually taking in less air/fuel mixture so your injector doesn't need to be open as long. I hope that makes sense.

I'll try an example. Forgive me if some of this is stuff you already know. Your injector pulse width is set at 7.47 milliseconds. So each time your cylinder fills with air/fuel your injector is staying open that long. At your torque peak your motor should be near it's peak volumetric efficiency. That is where it is capable of taking in the most air/fuel mixture. After you pass peak VE your motor is able to take in less mixture. At 4K RPM your matrix is set at 1.20 so 120% of your injector scaler. So your injector is staying open for 8.9ms during the time when your motor is most capable of taking in the air/fuel. At 6500 RPM your matrix is 1.30 or 130% of your injector scaler. So now your injector is staying open for 9.7ms or .8ms longer even though your motor is now capable of taking in less fuel.

Just make sure everything is very linear, I see a few places it jumps up from say 1.10 to 1.15 then back down, there is no need for that area to jump up. For the split second you will see that load cell you don't need to jump up like that. But for the most part the map looks pretty smooth.

My advice would be get into 4th gear and start the log around 3000 rpm's. It would be much simpler to look at one gear and 4th allows you to stay in gear and get good load. Once you do some tuning in 4th just go back through the gears and make sure you don't see anything weird. Also if you tune for 4th you will avoid leaning out, you may go a little richer in the lower gears but not enough to really kill your power. Without a gear based EMS you really can't get a perfect tune but it should be safe and fun.

Let me know if you need any help Todd. Looks like it should be rather simple now that you have the A/F readout.

Thanks guys!

Jason- The only boxes I need to worry about are the ones above (left line#) 105 and 137. Line 105 is for 5psi and each line above that is 5psi incriments. I swapped in my 7.25psi spring in my WG so I only need to tune to the 137 line until I push it past 10psi. At the time of the video I was only running 5psi but it is now at 7psi. Also I will try and do a log tonight in 4th for everyone. I just worry about breaking shit and getting pulled over lol.

Mike- I am always in need of help. Beings as I'm a n00b on this whole subject, I would love to spend an hour or so doing some logs and stuff with you (someone that knows what they're doing!). I think I would learn faster if I had someone next to me that could explain things a little better lol.

Alright, went and did a good 4th gear pull to as far into the RPM range as I felt comfortable with a new tune provided to me by the guy that's helping me from the Avenger forum. This one is MUCH better and is easier to read

To me it looks as though it is running a little thick in the 4000-5000rpm range. Might try and lean that out to about 11 since you are only running 5psi. You should be safe.

agreed looks like it started at about 4000 rpm at 4300ish got real rich, and 5000 leaned back out. you are sittin at 140in that area, if you drope her down to 135to 137 it might spike to 11.2 af or so, but it will be so quick your engine wont even notice it.

I see what you guys mean. I am waiting for a response from the guy that's helping me out, see what his suggestions are, and go from there. Also I've got the 7psi spring in my wastegate....... but my guage doesn't read anything above 5 and it doesn't look like the fuel controller is reading any higher than that. Should I maybe try the one that is "supposidly" 8.5psi and see what I get from that?

Got a few new parameters to try and a little more insight on how everything works. I'm going to adjust my "Fuel Cut Below" to 7kpa above atmospheric pressure that way the injectors take a second longer to come on then before, hopefully reducing my transition stumble. Also going to throw in my 8psi spring and see if that levels out to about 7psi since my 7psi spring levels out to 6psi

Probalby gonna play around with it for the rest of the week now that I understand it all and post my final results when I have a fine tune that I'm happy with

That is really strange that your springs are not holding the correct pressure. My 15psi spring is spot on when I have the AVC-R off. Give the 8 a shot and see what happens, if your theory is correct you should be rocking 7psi all day!

Well none of the springs are labeled in any way except a color and its extremely difficult to figure out the differances. I'm just guessing at the spring rate by comparing the colors to others I've seen online. For all I know the one I put in could in face be a 6psi spring and the one that I think is 8psi is actually 7 lol. Who knows, I'll find out soon enough

looks like a bunch of mumbo-jumbo, but thats just me... i can barely read the directions on a box of fruitloops...