PICS OF THE HONDAAAAAAAA!!

took some pics of the honda, figured i would share.

Good lookin civic. might need a few updates under the hood. i know it runs good. its just kinda how it was put together that i would be changing. A few little things would turn that engine bay around. keep us updated. boost is fun.

very nice billy howz she run and psi?

I didn't know that thing had snail power! Nice dood!! Gotta get rid of all them damn stickers though

runs good, needs tuned though..pushing 13psi right now. and, Todd, why would somebody EVER own a 4-cylinder car WITHOUT snail power? and all the stickers will stay..because almost all of them, have something to do with the car itself..all except for NOS, and it DID at one point in time, and probably will again.

I love the plates

thanks

not a bad start.... now just finish all of the work under the hood and make it look presentable. A little elbow grease and a few dollars would have that think looking a thousand times better.


also, rubber boost controller hoses are awesome when they melt on the manifold and then you hit 20+psi and things go boom! (Sarcasm)

billythekid wrote:

Todd, why would somebody EVER own a 4-cylinder car WITHOUT snail power? .

Because someone may choose to have power in their 4cyl way before that snail kicks in. I prefere supercharged 4cyl

Lol

i know it run hard. i was messin with it on main. a month or so ago.

Do I see a POWERADE Bottle for a coolant reserve tank?

And if you don't mind my asking, what did you end up paying for this car?

pretty sweet civic

haha nice. the arizona tea can for piping is kind of cool lookin, nice overflow tank too, didnt know poweraid made those. LOL

yes thats a powerade bottle for a reserve tank...for the time being, and i paid $3100 for it.

K, cool. I was really hoping you didn't pay the original $6000+ asking price I saw it listed for. You made out ok. I'd just clean up the engine bay, upgrade the engine management to something you can actually tune properly, and have fun with it. I'd also suggest running an electronic boost controller.

And lower that monster truck!

Haha, I really enjoy being able to get over speedbumps without swerving like a mofo

good start! i agree with proonthesnow, ditch the afc(atleast i think that thing has afc from seeing it like 5 years ago) and snatch up an s300 unit and a cheap electronic boost controller, or a better manual one! the hallmans are pretty nice units.. is that running a stock map sensor with a missing link? might wana upgrade that too when you get around to it!

I would reccomend Hondata s300, Ectune, or Neptune; you are 80 dollars away from a full feature boost controller with any of those ECUs.

well, im have been planning on getting hondata, but dont have like $500 to spend right now, thats why im trying to sell/trade my rims, roll on steelies, and get tuned correctly.

So... I read a facebook post that said you had 300whp. True? If so, what's done? That seems very impressive for that set-up.

engine is a jdm B16a1 dhoc vtec
tranny is out of a 90's ls integra
engine has-
8.5-1 compression ross pistons
eagle H-beam rods
ARP head studs
ported and polished head
has been bored .30 over
B&M oil cooler
power plus polished intake manifold
70 mm STR throttle body
ignition-
msd 6al ignition box
msd clear red pro cap
msd blaster ss coil
taylor spiro pro 8mm wires
turbo set up-
T3 turbonetics stage 2 polished turbo (oil cooled)
tial style external waste gate (6 lb spring)
apex blow off valve
aluminum inter cooler piping
front mount intercooler
fuel system-
walbro high volume fuel pump 255 lph-hp
DSM 450cc blue top injectors
STR fuel rail
pro fab fuel pressure regulator
apexi 2nd gen vtec air fuel computer

I like it. now its time to make it "yours". its no fun drivin somebody elses work around. Good luck with the build. I definitely want a ride, unless you are a crazy driver of course

You will have to bring it to the drags! 300whp in an ef hatch should def get you into the low 12s if not 11s with some stickies!

300hp is deffinately doable with your setup but not without some good tuning and higher boost. You'll need to be around 18-20psi depending on the fuel and timing. If your running around the 6 the wastegate spring is set for and get a good tune you should see around 180-200hp. I've tuned a few cars with setups very similar to yours. They were lots of fun and pretty dang fast. Unless you just want to drag race I'd stick with 8-10 psi and have fun with it, any more power and you'll have a hard time hooking up and getting the power to the ground.

300whp in an EF should be low 11's with good driving, to get and EF into the high 11's can be done with mid to low 200hp. Its actually a lot easier to get those good times too in a lower Hp car, then all you have to do is launch and hold it to the floor. In something like Jake's civic there is a lot more to do to try and get traction as you slide down the track.

I agree with Smase... looks like a good fun start, but getting numbers in the 300 area takes some tuning. I remember you saying you wanted something that wasn't so hard on gas... now the hard part is going to be not driving everywhere in boost!

ts4l wrote:

300hp is deffinately doable with your setup but not without some good tuning and higher boost. You'll need to be around 18-20psi depending on the fuel and timing. If your running around the 6 the wastegate spring is set for and get a good tune you should see around 180-200hp. I've tuned a few cars with setups very similar to yours. They were lots of fun and pretty dang fast. Unless you just want to drag race I'd stick with 8-10 psi and have fun with it, any more power and you'll have a hard time hooking up and getting the power to the ground.

300whp in an EF should be low 11's with good driving, to get and EF into the high 11's can be done with mid to low 200hp. Its actually a lot easier to get those good times too in a lower Hp car, then all you have to do is launch and hold it to the floor. In something like Jake's civic there is a lot more to do to try and get traction as you slide down the track.

i am running 13 lbs of boost right now.

sprockmember wrote:

I agree with Smase... looks like a good fun start, but getting numbers in the 300 area takes some tuning. I remember you saying you wanted something that wasn't so hard on gas... now the hard part is going to be not driving everywhere in boost!

i get about 20mpg driving hard..WITH a shit tune..its excellent, haha.

At 13psi with the AFC hack setup you have for tuning you should be able to see low 200's, its a little tough to really say because a "stage 2" T3 can mean a lot of things, if its a straight T3 I would guess you'll be around 200-210 if the tune is decent, and with something like Hondata could get you to 250 or so depending on how the head flows, I didn't see anything about cams? Cams could help you a lot if you turn the boost up to 18 or higher. Even now they could make a difference but if you want good gas mileage and the quickest spool/low end power the stock cams are a good choice. Setup's like yours are lots of fun and with a few tweaks here and there can go from mild to crazy pretty quick.

Your setup looks good to handle more boost when you get an EMS, 300 whp should be possible, obviously there is many variables on whether you want that much power and if everything is working together to get you there. If you had cams and rev'd it to 9,000 rpms you could probably see the 300hp mark at around 16psi but that would be peaky power. What you have now should be a fun DD or SCCA setup that can be fun even at the drag strip and if the strip stays open and you wanna run 11's or 10's should be able to get it there with a little work.

yeah, my plans so far are 1. tuning software. 2. bigger injectors. 3. nitrous(not a very large shot)

did you spray paint FARTCAN on the side of your car billy?

lol, where did you get that?

Your avatar

ts4l wrote:

300hp is deffinately doable with your setup but not without some good tuning and higher boost. You'll need to be around 18-20psi depending on the fuel and timing. If your running around the 6 the wastegate spring is set for and get a good tune you should see around 180-200hp. I've tuned a few cars with setups very similar to yours. They were lots of fun and pretty dang fast. Unless you just want to drag race I'd stick with 8-10 psi and have fun with it, any more power and you'll have a hard time hooking up and getting the power to the ground.

300whp in an EF should be low 11's with good driving, to get and EF into the high 11's can be done with mid to low 200hp. Its actually a lot easier to get those good times too in a lower Hp car, then all you have to do is launch and hold it to the floor. In something like Jake's civic there is a lot more to do to try and get traction as you slide down the track.

jakes car doesnt actually spin bad at the track at all.. even with his radials on the street he can hook in second, i have a hard time seeing 11s with low 200-230whp in an ef here.. i was running 14 lbs on slicks with low 1.8 60foots and only got mid 12s? although the turbo was junk and fell on its face after 6k rpm i guess

with a bigger charger and some better software i dont see why this setup couldnt get 300+whp with 13psi.. jakes civic was over 300whp on 9psi with a bolt on kit and a 30r

i spin in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd when i hit boost, and 4th too, if im really getting on it..but thats on the street, with street tires..

Jake just going off weight to power ratio that's about all it should take, obviously there are a lot of other factors. If you launched at 14 psi and cut 1.5's you could have seen 11's probably worst case low 12's. But obviously that's best case. Also the power curve will make a big difference too. If you made good low end Tq and hold it to 7,000+ that will be a lot faster than a car that makes peak Tq at 4500 rpm's and falls off by 6000. The rule of thumb for a boosted car is to aim for a 3,000 rpm area of flat or good usable Tq. Again that also depends on the type of driving you plan on doing on what type of power and when you want it.

91FiveOh wrote:

Your avatar

na, don't worry, i just 'shopped it, haha.

Oh lol ok

ha

God I've really been trying to be nice recently on the forums. Just please analyze the gross rationalizations you are making. For example. A B swapped turbo Hatchback can weight over 2600 lbs. A Turbo D 88 HF stripped will weigh in mid 1600s. So...power to weight says that a 180hp Crx runs next to a 300 Hp EF. I am trying to not be a dick I just have a hard time with 'scientific' analyzations that boast the precision of a stick of dynamite. Hate to say it, probably not going to run 11's with 200 hp. You dont swap a GSR with bolt ons into an EF civic hatch and run 11's.

i beat a Ducati tonight, so i am happy..haha.

Aviglakis wrote:

God I've really been trying to be nice recently on the forums. Just please analyze the gross rationalizations you are making. For example. A B swapped turbo Hatchback can weight over 2600 lbs. A Turbo D 88 HF stripped will weigh in mid 1600s. So...power to weight says that a 180hp Crx runs next to a 300 Hp EF. I am trying to not be a dick I just have a hard time with 'scientific' analyzations that boast the precision of a stick of dynamite. Hate to say it, probably not going to run 11's with 200 hp. You dont swap a GSR with bolt ons into an EF civic hatch and run 11's.

I know there are many variables, I never said that every EF should run those times, I am saying it doesn't take a lot of power to get you to those times, all too many times i see some kid in a stripped out 2000 lbs. hatch running 12's and telling everyone he must make 400 hp to run those times. This is the reason I bring this up, there have been plenty of stripped out 200hp cars that run 11's and this is not scientific analysis this is going to the track for Midnight drags in Salt Lake and watching cars that I have seen dyno'd earlier that day. Power to weight ratio's obviously are flawed by many factors, but if all the variables are removed the math is correct. I know the variables well I ran at 460whp and ran 13.6's the first time out because I didn't know how to drive a car with that much power, and couldn't get it to the ground. So I would agree I know that just because some calculator says I can run low 11's doesn't mean I will, but in lower HP cars that are less variables and its simpler to drive, and if you have ever used any quality online ET calculator you would know they are usually very close to exact with good driving and getting the power to the wheels.

"Also you don't swap a GSR into a car with minor bolt ons and run 11's", that comment is true, you also will not see 200hp of useable power with a GSR and bolt ons. As I said in an earlier post power curve is very important, making a GSR make 200hp at 9,000 rpm's is very much different from a useable 200hp power curve, not to mention that its still not that simple as a few bolt ons to get a GSR to 200 whp. I'm more than open to have you debate what I am saying but I've seen many under powered cars run much better times than high power built cars, all I am saying is that everyone doesn't need 300-400hp to have a 11 second car, there has been a few honda's even hear in Billings stripped out that ran 12's and 11's that had no where near that kind of power although some of the owners would have sworn be cause some "so called tuners" told them their tiny turbo's and stock 270cc injectors where helping them make well over 400 hp.

A 250hp hatch is a really fast car if setup right and the weight is on the lower side, heck even a full interior hatch that's still going to be a super fun and pretty fast car. A 2600 lbs turbo car is really lite compared to almost any other car out there, so as you said it may still weigh 2600 lbs but that's no heavy car by any means. Like Billy's car it should be a blast and I'm sorry for getting off topic.

It will be a blast. No doubt about that. You can cut an 11.99 with a hatchback with under 300 HP. Are we agreed? Somehow we went from a 2600 lbs car with 200hp running elevens to a 250 hp 2000 lbs car. Here's a hint, the wide breadth of those numbers is the reason why I had a problem with you exacting calculation before.