Honda/Acura people!!!!!

dyno76 wrote:

^^^^^^LOL think that is your favorite line..

LOL, it quite possibly is. The reason I don't want to sell it is because if I go with EKK2 Motor Mounts down the road, you have to run an EG rack in the EK for the oil pan to clear the rack. Look on Honda-Tech, there is a write up on how to remove power steering, and retain the rack and have it work properly. Skyler did it on his EK and it worked pretty good.

Ya I did that on the coupe but just figired since I had motor out why not change the rack...But I am also looking for a eg hatch shell to throw the SOHC in...SO hopefully I can get lucky and find one...

So wait, are you putting the motor from the EG Coupe shell into an EG hatch if you find one? And what are your plans for the EK hatch - sell the EK coupe yet?

If I can find a hatch then ya that is my plan but finding one will be a challenge I think..

Looking into some motors as we speak for the ek hatch will be a DD/scca car...

Not yet maybe tomorrow I hope

anyone looking for a 96 hatch

http://missoula.craigslist.org/cto/1950259317.html

So as Fall approaches us and winter will be folowing shortly after..What projects does everyone have for the winter? Who plans on running the drag strip or scca next summer? Just kinda of curious if there will be little more out next year or not...

Ill start I have my 1320 queen (94 civic coupe d16 turbo) that hopefully, should be on the track next summer...

Also have a 96 civic hatch that should be some what ready for some scca'ing next year...

These are both works in progress but I hope to atleast have them both out competing on the weekends next summer

6262+Vitara+Rex+Methanol = Pump gas hero

Nice!! Look forward to seeing it.....Need to get your buddy JP off his butt and finishing his...lol

...That'll be a cold day in hell Ben.

Well sounds like there will be 2 cold days in hell!!! Cuz we are still waiting to see your project done (started)...LOL hahahaha

You can't rush perfection

LMAO oh ok...Well if thats what it is I completely understand

Where do you get the manufacturers manuals for new civics? Like the factory blueprints on working on them mechanically? Or how the electronic systems work?

try a Haynes or chilton repair manual..They are pretty good and detailed...

chiltons are better I think. Id sell you mine but my mounting points are all cut apart.

well, next year, i will either have a beast, or a different car.. haven't quite figured out which way im gonna go..unfortunately, it will probably be the second one..just cant afford to keep dumping money into this civic...anybody wanna trade?? haha.

Chiltons are better but I have run into some problems with both the Chiltons and Haynes electrical schemtics when wiring certain things and trying to wire to different OBD 's just could be me though!



__________sprock___________

billythekid wrote:

well, next year, i will either have a beast, or a different car.. haven't quite figured out which way im gonna go..unfortunately, it will probably be the second one..just cant afford to keep dumping money into this civic...anybody wanna trade?? haha.

is the honda having quite a few issues. seems like you have been having some problems for the last month or so.

the problems i have been having were just fixing the original shortcuts taken when the original owner built it..but now, thanks to Vallie Automotive selling broken shit, my car overboosted, and it needs new rings, or a turbo rebuild(cant tell yet, taking the turbo apart tomorrow to check) if only they had sold me a working boost controller

Doesnt car have a boost gauge?

yes, i dropped it off to be tuned, and he got on it once(boost controller turned all the way down) and it pushed out like 20+lbs and blew something(either turbo or rings)

HMMMM!!!!


shitty deal man.....

Don't know all the details about your incident Billy, but a part purchased from a shop, and then them driving the car while damage happens... I would be having a long discussion with them. Did they install the boost controller?

regardless of what people tell you about shops, shady stuff can always happen. I remember when Jason got a call from someone telling him that they just saw the 240 being drifted through intersections when it was suppose to be at the nissan dealership for the lsd install.

Mr. Vallie is no newbie to boosted cars, you would think this wouldn't have happened.

the boost controller was purchased from Vallie, and was installed by Alex (Aviglakis here on the forum) i watched him install the boost controller, and adjust it all the way so that it should have been hitting MINIMAL boost, and when he went to tune it, he got on it the first time and said it hit 20+lbs and blew something, now its burning oil.. if it weren't for the broken boost controller, my car would be running and driving with a nice tune right now damn you Vallie Automotive.

billythekid wrote:

the boost controller was purchased from Vallie, and was installed by Alex (Aviglakis here on the forum) i watched him install the boost controller, and adjust it all the way so that it should have been hitting MINIMAL boost, and when he went to tune it, he got on it the first time and said it hit 20+lbs and blew something, now its burning oil.. if it weren't for the broken boost controller, my car would be running and driving with a nice tune right now damn you Vallie Automotive.

im not here to bad month anybody. but that's a shitty deal. to me it seem kinda as if it something in the motor. not to offen do you see turbos getting hurt cause of over boosting even if it was a cheapo turbo off ebay. first thing id do was a compression test. i have a compression if you need to use it. when my truck was first tuned every now and then it would backfire. over the span of a few month it would backfire and be ok but one day i got on it. well it backfire and it was all over. ended up cracking #7 piston. it still ran fine but anytime you would even go into boost it would start smoking. compression will tell you alot.

Billy sounds like broken ring lands!! compression test will tell you right away!

Just my 2 cents but if I it was to purchase a boost controller and install it myself I would be watching boost gauge like a hawk just to make sure it was working properly and that it was hitting the boost levels I set it at or thought I set it at and I would of slowly been bring car into boost to make sure it was at the settings I wanted it at..........But regardless of that I dont really think bad mouthing a shop over a part you purchased but didnt check yourself to make sure it was working properly first is not fair to them...Cuz I dont see them selling a broken one just to make couple dollars....He isnt that kind of guy ..Tim has many years and years of experience and has built or been part of many fast cars in this town and not just hondas just doesnt all add up..

And as far as your motor it should of been able to handle a quick 20+ spike of boost...Cuz I am sure once person noticed felt it was boosting really hard shut it down immediatly......But lets not forget how abused this motor got when you first got car...Racing Ducatis and whatever else you guys could on a afc that wasnt even tuned correctly needed adjustment from day one and car wasnt running good for that matter either...Pretty sure alot of people said baby that car till you get a good tune on it or something bad was gonna happen...Just saying what alot of people said including myself...

Now I am not trying to come off as a jerk or asswhole...It sucks what happen to your car...But it really irrates the hell out of me when someone blames bad mouths a shop that had nothing to do with what happen to your car..All they did was sell you a mechanical part ( and as every one knows when putting a new part on your car you check to make sure its working properly doing what its suppose to be doing) !




once again sorry hit a nerve...And I am not trying to be a jerk but dont blame the guy that just sold you the part.....

I should have probably kept my mouth shut, but was curious to know more. I certainly don't want to pass judgement on either party. Like all car issues, I am sure it is a huge combination of issues that happend to cause the end result.

Best of luck fixing the car

Amen ben. Also I have got a lot of parts from Tim and never had a problem. Even a few boost controllers myself. You have to watch out for some I have seen them stick from sitting over time. Doesn't matter if its a spendy one or not. I have had the cheap. Little brass ones to the $120 hallman one I have now. Hope you get the issue fixxed with the car. From what I have heard that little motor was built with some nice parts. So hopefully its a ring or something small.

The boost controller you purchased was a billet boost controller with slowboy racing on the side, I buy several of these a month and have had zero problems, If you had listened to me when you purchased the controller you would know that if you twist the bolt in it raises the boost and out lowers the boost. If you had any questions I can always be called at the shop and I am glad to help. Thank you guys that stuck up for me on this post.

Just wondering billy what's the car doing? Is it missing blowing smoke? No power?

VALLIE wrote:

The boost controller you purchased was a billet boost controller with slowboy racing on the side, I buy several of these a month and have had zero problems, If you had listened to me when you purchased the controller you would know that if you twist the bolt in it raises the boost and out lowers the boost. If you had any questions I can always be called at the shop and I am glad to help. Thank you guys that stuck up for me on this post.

i did exactly that, and it didn't work, unfortunately..but yeah, i SHOULD have checked it first, before putting on and everything..maybe this was one of the bad ones..sorry about badmouthing your shop..if anybodys fault, it would be the people making them..not yours.

shawnss wrote:

Just wondering billy what's the car doing? Is it missing blowing smoke? No power?

not missing, has power, but blows smoke constantly(lower rpm = more smoke, higher rpm = less smoke), and it wont hit any boost at all.

and, Dyno76, we compression tested and everything before tuning the first time, everything was fine, only issue was the oil was diluted(we changed it) although, i guess it could have weakened something possibly..

I'm wondering if the turbo just blew? don't know much about your setup, is there a way to easily check for shaft play?

Did you do a leak down test also?? I only ask cuz I did a compression test on my motor and it was good but when I tore it all apart rust in cyclinder walls and a little scratch on #1 cyclinder........

there wasnt any antifreeze in oil was there?? I am sure there wasnt but just thought I would ask since you said it was diluted a little bit??? I really do hope its an easy fix for you...

checked for shaft play, it was the same as when i got the car..and i haven't done compression or leakdown tests, as i don't have the equipment to do so..and no, when we did the first tune it was gassed out because of running so rich. i think it is the motor..of which i don't have the money or time to even dig into

not to get off topic but has anyone seen the cr-z? SICK!!!!

i do agree haha.

billy sorry I didnt call I didnt get off work till late and by the time we ate it was bed time for the baby, maybe this weekend?

billy, you can loose a seal in a turbo and still not have shaft play. i just blew one my self on the exhaust side of a car i have been working on. the more oil pressure you have the better the seal seals in a turbo. that would run right along with you theory of it burning more oil at low rpm and less at higher rpm.

first off, does it have a catchcan? is it full? have you pulled any of the plugs to look at those? have you pulled the turbo all the way off of the car. if it just spiked and the car didnt stumble or jerk its more than likly not the engine.

The boost controler isnt the suplyers fault if it is faulty (prolly isnt when they go bad they usually stick open) it is the manufactures fault.

sounds like it is my turbo then..and i don't have a catchcan setup, that was coming after the tune..i haven't pulled plugs, Aviglakis said he did and there was oil residue on two of them..so idk there..and i have yet to pull the turbo off the car, i may just pull it off tomorrow..not sure..and yeah, like i posted afterwards, if it is anybodys fault, it is the maker of the controller, not Vallie..i was just a little pissed off and automatically shot at vallie..again, sorry. i sure hope its just the turbo needing a rebuild..and Eric, yeah, sounds good man.

alright lets get back to these winter projects...I am curious as to who will be out of there garage next season!!!!Dont be shy and share with all of us

I think four lbs is a good number. Out of a cute little saab snail, quick to spool and not too much cfm. I dont know about timing retard though. 11:1 CR is pretty high, so I was thinking I would start with 1.75 degree per lb? Does any one have any input?

I think your car is going to be slow no matter what you do Eric. lol

winter projects...... hmmm. I'll be rebuilding my B20vtec for a special purpose (ok to beat Eric). and it looks like I'll be putting a H23a together for some N/A vtec fun for a kid.

VALLIE wrote:

The boost controller you purchased was a billet boost controller with slowboy racing on the side, I buy several of these a month and have had zero problems, If you had listened to me when you purchased the controller you would know that if you twist the bolt in it raises the boost and out lowers the boost. If you had any questions I can always be called at the shop and I am glad to help. Thank you guys that stuck up for me on this post.

Hey Tim,
Hopefully this isn't your one and only post on the forum. Hope to see you around man.

Dr.Auto wrote:

I think your car is going to be slow no matter what you do Eric. lol

winter projects...... hmmm. I'll be rebuilding my B20vtec for a special purpose (ok to beat Eric). and it looks like I'll be putting a H23a together for some N/A vtec fun for a kid.

Very nice sir!!!! Look forward to seeing them both.. Have to get whoever has the H23 project on here and to chime in...Would be really cool if we could see alot more Honda powered cars out at the scca and drag strip...(Record setting #'s)

Hopefully I can make a decision on which powerplant to run in the hatch will be a N/A car for sure...stay tuned

And the coupe has some changes in store for it...Cant wait till everything starts coming together...Patience isnt one of my strongest suits lol

dyno76 wrote:

Dr.Auto wrote:

I think your car is going to be slow no matter what you do Eric. lol

winter projects...... hmmm. I'll be rebuilding my B20vtec for a special purpose (ok to beat Eric). and it looks like I'll be putting a H23a together for some N/A vtec fun for a kid.

Very nice sir!!!! Look forward to seeing them both.. Have to get whoever has the H23 project on here and to chime in...Would be really cool if we could see alot more Honda powered cars out at the scca and drag strip...(Record setting #'s)

Hopefully I can make a decision on which powerplant to run in the hatch will be a N/A car for sure...stay tuned

And the coupe has some changes in store for it...Cant wait till everything starts coming together...Patience isnt one of my strongest suits lol

im the same way with the patience thing. i really want to pull my entire truck apart and redo everything. but it will take way to much time so i will probably wait until next year/winter. i think my 88mm needs a brother maybe twin turbos would be neat.

billy PM me. i am looking to sell my toy.

SeizeFate wrote:

billy PM me. i am looking to sell my toy.

moving on to something else or getting out?

Hi, I hope this topic is over I just want to lend some clarification. I took Billys car out with the boost controller just far enough to seat the spring, it held stock pressure for about halfway through a gear and then at high rpm, ball bound up, it had jammed the ball into the signal output passageway and the boost spiked, obviously very quickly due to the rpm and the size of the turbo. Many things were at play but I was off boost within a second. You have to understand when I am tuning I am watching many things and listening to a det can at the same time. I am still vigilant especially when turning up the boost but at this point I am assuming there will be at least three more stops before I hit the sweet spot and boost actually starts climbing. There was no detonation, nothing over the box and nothing on the plugs. She just popped, probably ringlands. As many of you have said this car should have been able to handle it, that is true and Billy was informed of this before any tuning started. None of this makes the boost controller NOT a factor. If his motor had held up to the spike, he still should be getting his money back and could not drive around with the thing anyway.

I agree if the Boost controller did actually malfunction/ have a defect from factory then I am sure someone would do a exhange or something on it...Most places do if I am correct ...Think alot of people just didnt agree with blaming the guy that sold the part..He didnt build it, had no idea of it having any defects( if it did) ,he didnt install it or run car..Think thats what brought this subject to where it went....

And for as when you were tuning it I know there is alot going on. Things to look for, listen for and everything else..Thats why I said I am sure guy shut it down immediatly and you did...But lets not kid are selfs here we all know that when messing with these cars making them do things they didnt come from the factory doing..We run the risk of things happening bad or good. Hopefully good but we all know that at any time it can go real bad real quick...Thats the risk we take when doing this to are cars...and that risk is even higher if car is not setup correctly from beginning...I know this 1st hand as I have blown up my fair share of motors lol..its how I got the name dyno...haha